Shirt Balance vs. Fit
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Joined: August 04, 2006
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Location: Wisconsin

Shirt Balance vs. Fit
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Posted on Thu Nov 04, 2010 5:30 pm
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So I've been working on a shirt for some time now and have encountered a problem which should be simple enough to figure out but I can't quite get it.

So the back half is wider than the front half to allow for natural movement of the arms (arms bend farther forward than backward). However this has (obviously) resulted in the back portion weighing more than the front. Therefore, when I wear the shirt, it tends to slide back and put pressure on my neck. Not enough to hurt but it is annoying and uncomfortable.

Ideas? Tips? Suggestions?


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Posted on Thu Nov 04, 2010 6:34 pm
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other then a re disign. only thing i can think of right off hand woulod be to add weight to the frunt. mabye this is an option split the frunt section. and add an approptriat amount of rings to both sides of the split and do a overlap seam.

see here for construction info

http://www.mailleartisans.org/articles/articledisplay.cgi?key=8876

you'll obviasly just be doing the top seem thing but hay it will move some weight


maille Code V2.0 T8.3 R6.4 Ep.f Fper Mfe.s Wsg$ Cpw$ G0.25-2.5 I0.5-30 N31.31 Pa Dacdjw Xa27g37w1 S94

Joined: March 27, 2002
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Posted on Fri Nov 05, 2010 4:26 am
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Try taking a few rows off the front edge of the neckhole. How wide are your shoulder straps at present? Do they cover all of the trapezius muscles from neck outwards to their insertion in the shoulder rotator cuff? That may give the needed friction, or you may need to have short sleeves on there to fully stabilize everything.

Your body barrel is connected into a barrel all the way around your torso, right? You did not quite happen to mention.


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Joined: August 04, 2006
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Posted on Fri Nov 05, 2010 6:20 am
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The body barrel is completed. I may need to make it smaller though. It's probably about 5 inches greater in circumference than it needs to be.

The shoulder straps are something different. Imagine a mantle made of six trapezoids connected with 45 degree seams. The body barrel is built off of the front and back trapezoid, with the back trapezoid being widest. The "mantle" portion covers each shoulder.

I think if i take rings of the front of the neck, that would just exacerbate the imbalance.

Other Misc notes that may be important:

12ga 3/8" Stainless from TRL
Body barrel Circumference: 55 inches
Extends to the hips, will make longer if I can balance it.
No real sleeves at this point, just shoulder coverage.
Weight: A little over 30 lbs.


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Posted on Fri Nov 05, 2010 12:41 pm
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It sounds like the probelm is less about ballance and more about how the sholders are tailored.

I would start buy chinching a belt around the mail and blousing it just a little to see if that helps.

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Posted on Fri Nov 05, 2010 11:04 pm
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This may sound silly but wear a belt over it. It will keep every thing in place and will take some of the weight off your shoulders.

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Posted on Sun Nov 07, 2010 3:51 am
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Quote:
I think if i take rings of the front of the neck, that would just exacerbate the imbalance.


I doubt it, Theo. The friction of the entire shirt would make the removal of a few ounces insignificant. And there's something to the belt hint -- also consider narrowing the shirt down towards your waist before flaring it again over hips and buttocks. This waisting disinclines the shirt to try and slide down and choke you, as it now has more friction.

I like to call such trapezoidal-segment shoulder sections as you describe "yoketops" myself, as distinguished from "mantletops" with curving linkrows rather than polygonal ones, but nobody's buying in. In many ways they are much the same. A 45-degree join is really a series of expansions continuing along a 45-degree slant. So either scheme is quite full of expansions.


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